We spent a lovely time at this very picturesque beach; it’s a spit of white sand that at low tide joins an island to the peninsula. This is the first time we have stayed at this beach as always before it was full of rigs. This time there were only about 10 rigs on the beach, all of which were spending the winter here. Most had done so for many years so there were some strong friendships and much socializing, very nice people.
Our first day was perfect for paddling so as soon as we could get the yaks off the roof we were in the water, since the forecast was for gale force winds for the next few days. We actually had 5 days of brisk winds so we cycled and hiked around the area and the last two days were absolutely glorious for paddling.
The island is very interesting, it’s covered with rusty red volcanic boulders, all of fairly consistent size – about 1- 2 feet in diameter. There were a few paths between these rocks that we followed along which lead to several middens of shells fairly high up from a very rocky shoreline. There were also several fairly large piles of rock and a few circles of rock which perhaps at one time formed a shelter. I think these were formed by the ancient ones.
We also had a nice hike across the highway from the beach, you have to go under the barbed wire fence and there is a very well marked trail through the rusty red boulders and abundant cactus. It’s a very easy hike into the canyon and up the arroyo. And of course there are times when you come across pools of fresh water; today was not one of them. By the time we found the trail through the fence we had used up much of our hiking time so we didn’t get more than about 45 minutes in before it was time to turn back.
Our last two days we had spectacular paddling, the water just couldn’t have been flatter and the visibility in the water was amazing. We saw yellowtail zipping by and came across an area that was rich with large angel fish. Since today dawned with freshening winds we decided to pull out and move on south to Loreto.
Just before we pulled out we met an old guy named Bill Bunyan who stopped by to admire our motor home. He has been coming down Baja for the past 20 years and says this is his last year, he won’t be back. He will go to mainland Mexico instead. He says he doesn’t like being ripped off and this is what’s going on in Baja now. He has been staying at a free beach called Juncalito (south of Loreto) for years and suddenly they want you to have a park permit (this area is a park) and people are coming around to collect $20 per day. These people wear no identification and refuse to provide any. Nor do they provide any receipts. There was much dissent amongst the campers as for the most part they were regulars for the past many years and this is the first they have had to pay. So, they refused to pay. There are absolutely no services on this beach so $20 a night is a bit steep. It is also doubtful that the collectors have any authority to collect. A policeman arrived on several Mondays (his day off) demanding that they pay up; he also refused to provide his badge number or his name, the campers again refused to pay or to leave. When the original collector arrived with a gun ordering them to leave the others finally left, except for Bill, although in his own time he finally left and is now heading north. According to Bill this same man also worked at a hotel in Loreto and it was determined that his gun was merely a toy. He was consequently fired from the hotel for keeping this toy gun behind his desk. The other campers have since joined ranks at either Rattlesnake or Ligui (also in the park) and their plan is to again refuse to pay and to all leave together at the same time when asked to pay…. Bill has just decided to leave Baja altogether. Personally I think these folks have had it good for a very long time and if they now have to pay, well times are achanging.
We were just inspected at the checkpoint just north of Loreto, the very first time going south – they were inspecting everyone. This time they did not look in the fridge but it was the most extensive search we have had. He noticed Lorne’s pill case that was inadvertently left on the table – we thought for a moment this would warrant a full scale search…. Fortunately he was satisfied that they were mostly vitamins. He did want to purchase one of Lorne’s tools however and he did ask if we had any drugs or guns before he left. I think he was quite amazed at how many things we have crammed into this space – frankly so are we.
Just as we pulled in to Rivera Del Mar Trailer Park in Loreto up walks Janet and Jim from Victoria! Well that was a pleasant surprise! So we have spent a few lovely hours chatting and catching up on all the latest Baja stories. Think we will spend another night here and just catch up on internet, whats the rush? Who knows, perhaps I will figure out how to post pictures again..... Since I have been unable to spend any time on the blog other than to cut and paste from word I just haven't got my pictures on properly yet..... Manana
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